There
are no doors on the bedrooms, only curtains.
There
are footlockers underneath the beds . . . with no locks on them.
This
is one of the handful of hostels that exist in America. They are advertised to possess a microbrewery
and rooftop garden. When we arrive we
find a large banner stating, “Microbrewery Coming Soon!” The sign is from 2012.
We
are the only guests tonight, so we have the run of the . . . house? Naturally, the first thing we do . . . is
jump in the shower. Because even though
we stayed in that fancy resort last night, we were both too tired to bother
with hygiene. Scrubbing down in that
narrow wooden stall is the greatest feeling in the world right now.
Before
heading out, we wander around the rest of the house. There’s a great back deck with a hammock, but
I want to check out this garden on the roof.
Well,
there’s nothing growing up here, but the view is spectacular.
And
it seems that we have stumbled upon . . . another festival! This one is a chicken wing festival. We bypass the street vendors and crowds and
make for the bars. This drink is long
overdue, and I don’t have to drive anywhere else today. We saunter past a tattoo shop, where several
of the local artists in residence are out front smoking. They shamelessly ogle Ally and all her ink.
After
a few bars and as many pints, I notice that my debit card is missing . . . and
now so is my buzz. We revisit the pubs
we’ve already patronized, to no avail. I
return to the hostel and check through my bags and the common areas. If that
goddamn hippie stole my fucking debit card. . . .
I
meet Ally next door at the Jabberwock, where the bartender is vigorously
chatting her up.
“Can
I borrow your phone to call my bank?”
I
ask them to put a temporary hold on my card.
Reason being: I know that as soon
as they do it, I will find the damn thing.
In the mean time, I still have my credit card and some cash.
“Do
you need a boytoy?” the bartender eagerly asks Ally. I nearly spit my beer out.
“Uh
. . . I have one of those already. . . .”
I
hide my smile in my beer; it’s all about Ally tonight!
We
each buy a Jabberwock t-shirt, then finish our beers and decide to turn in
early for the night. As we exit the bar,
an older patron sees us going next door into the hostel.
“Oh,
you’re stayin’ at the hostel, huh?”
I
love when complete strangers feel the need to make pointless comments about the
obvious—said no one ever. “Yep!
Goodbye forever!” I call out as I slam the door behind us.
This
ranks in my top two favorite interactions with strangers at bars on this
trip. When we were at New Albania, Ally
mentioned that we needed to head out to our campsite. Some random at the bar goes, “Oh, you gals
got a camper?”
Ally
replies, “No . . . tents?”
For
whatever reason, that statement dumbfounded him and he presented no response.
Back
in the hostel, I rifle through my bags once more in an attempt to find my debit
card. I check the one pocket of my Flash
Bag where I am certain I would never
leave it.
And
that’s exactly where it is.
I
call my bank back and ask them to remove the hold on my card.
“What
is the temporary pass code you gave when you placed the hold?”
“JABBERWOCK!”
I shout, victorious.
And
on that note, it’s time to get some sleep.
Next
day we begin to make our way out of West Virginia.
As
we drive along, we realize that a quick departure is not going to be
feasible. Driving through West Virginia
is awe-inspiring: mountains of black
coal rise up on one side of us, while the Appalachians loom above us on the
other side. Small towns with ramshackle
houses nuzzle among the peaks and valleys, creating picturesque scenes
impossible to capture on film.
We
must first pause to marvel at this stunning beauty:
(I wish the sun had been out to
better illuminate just how breathtaking this scene was.)
Our next stop is The Mystery Hole!
I
can’t tell you what happens in The Mystery Hole; it defies the laws of
nature. You have to see it for yourself. Obviously, we both bought Mystery Hole tank
tops to commemorate the experience.
Next,
we stumble across Gauley Bridge, which is normally a gushing waterfall. This year, however, the water trickles
lightly and peacefully.
First
stop:
Second
stop:
Third
stop: (Kanawha Falls)
(This place smells of lilac.)
I
have to turn around a few times, and park a few blocks away, but the walk is
worth it.
Hillybilly
Hot Dogs . . . Part Deux!
This
time I got the Junkyard Dog (homemade chili sauce, mustard, onions, ketchup,
mayo, relish, slaw, kraut, nacho cheese, jalapenos, and bbq), which wasn’t as
good as the Out Wayne Dog I got at the original location (nacho cheese, chili
sauce, bacon, onions, and jalapenos).
There was just too much cold stuff on top of it, and I’m not a big slaw
fan—I figured that with that much shit on it, the slaw wouldn’t bother me. Don’t get me wrong, it was still really
tasty, and I ate the shit out of it, but I was much happier with my initial
choice.
And
once again we had to get the garlic bacon blue cheese fries. I tell you what; say what you will about
hippies, but they know what the fuck they’re doing in the kitchen. Note the ridiculous amount of bacon atop this
pile of fried potatoes and cheese—it’s at least twice as much as we got at the
other spot. Can you even see the fries?
We
hit up an old-fashioned drive-in diner and order root beer floats for dessert,
then we make for the horse park in Lexington, Kentucky.
We
both despise this type of luxury camping; we’d rather be at the primitive
sites—in the woods—away from people, all these RVs, and all these damn yippee
dogs.
But
we must concede a few things, for the convenience of using the restroom is
quite difficult for someone in a full knee brace, mere weeks out of surgery.
(Only in Kentucky.)
Ally
used to camp here a lot when she did dog shows with her mother and aunt in her adolescence. She travels a lot. In fact, I barely had to plan anything for
this trip: all I did was mention it to her and she looked up the
date and time for the Roadkill Cook-off, rented our audio books, and found
every place we slept. I was in charge of
food and Points of Interest—like Jerry’s Junk and The Mystery Hole.
Overall
I think we did pretty well; we hit pretty much every stop we wanted to, came
across a few we hadn’t planned on—hell even getting lost trying to find our
campsite was an adventure—and through it all we managed not to kill each other. Not that I ever thought we would; Ally and I have
very similar temperaments. Although,
after five days in the Jeep with her, I think that the first thing I’m going to
do once I get home is hop on the motorcycle and go for a cruise!
I
cooked some shrimp in my new bourbon-smoked paprika, and it was amazing! Super smoky.
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