The
aroma of house-cured bacon fills me like a drug. As I inhale, my eyes roll back in my head and
an “. . . oh, baby. . . .” escapes my lips in a husky whisper. Oh my .
. . that is a mighty hot pan . . . scorching.
Burt
has been curing his own bacon for years, but never tried selling it at the
shop, till I told him he could be charging upwards of $12 a pound for “Artisan”
Bacon.
I’ve
never had bacon this thick before. Burt
cut it by hand rather than using the deli slicer; it’s about half an inch
thick. And he gave me the “ugly” end
pieces, which are even thicker. Nobody
buys them because they’re deformed, but I will take them in and love them just
the same.
Same
with the two-pound face piece of sirloin I have sitting out. It’s not the end piece, but the one just
inside that, and has a bit of cartilage in the middle of it that customers
don’t want, though it’s no less edible than any other steak.
When
the bacon is done I set it aside on a paper towel. I’ll to
wait till you’re ready, baby.
When
I drop the steak into that rendered bacon fat, a solid sizzle goes up; just
what I want to hear.
Once
browned I slip the steak from the frying pan to a baking sheet, the
still-crackling grease tenderly poured over it.
I can hear it hissing even behind the closed oven door. I know,
honey, I know. That’s what I love
about food: it will let you know when
it’s ready, either with a look, a sound, or a smell.
The
steak has been rested. It’s time to
cut. I stand over the meat, chin in
hand, contemplating how to go about this.
I get my big knife.
I
slice through the thickest part—probably over two inches (whoever thought two
inches could be so . . . satisfying?)—the
meat is dark red inside. I stick a
finger into the cut. Room temperature .
. . the finger goes in my mouth.
Maybe
. . . maybe just a small taste . . . a bite from the corner . . . an
exploratory nibble. The flesh is sweet
from the bacon grease. It doesn’t need a
thing, but I can’t resist just a bit of hot sauce. Before I know it, I’ve lost control and can’t
stop feeding myself. I tear through the
flesh greedily; blood and juice dribble down my chin, but I pay no heed. Fast, rough, and messy, the steak is
gone.
Now
I move on to the piggy. The cure is made
with brown sugar and salt; the meat is cold smoked at 100 degrees with blocks
of ice inside the smoker. I’m not going
to be able to come back from this; this is the epitome of bacon-hood—the apex—all
other bacon from here on out is inferior.
I feel like I’ve waited my whole life for this bacon. This bacon is
the meal in and of itself; it would be an insult to serve it alongside eggs, or
any other lesser food. You can’t follow
this act with . . . anything. The meat
is tender, sweet, salty, and very smoky.
If I devoured the steak unrelentingly, I took my time with the
bacon, holding it in my mouth, savoring it.
I
recline in a state of utter bliss, completely gratified, breathless, mind-blown
. . . drifting off into a food coma. Absolute
bacon euphoria achieved. There is
nothing more a girl could want . . . nothing more to say.
No comments:
Post a Comment